From Lower to Upper Egypt

Ready To Start a Full-Day of Touring
Our hotel in Cairo
As we had now essentially doubled our time to see Cairo, we did not have to get as early a start on Saturday morning as originally planned. We enjoyed the extensive breakfast buffet again, gathered up our bags, and left the hotel with our driver "Steve" around 9:00am. Our guide Josef was to meet us at our first stop, which was the Citadel complex overlooking the city. As we would see during most of our trip, the lack of large tourist crowds was pretty obvious. The Citadel parking lot was all but empty when we arrived, before a couple of large buses with local high-school-age kids pulled up. The first fortifications on the citadel hill date to the 12th century, and were built by the famous Salah al-Din as a defense against Christian crusaders. Over the subsequent centuries, formal walls and castles were built, as well as the current centerpiece, which is the Mohamed Ali Mosque, built in the mid-19th century. It is a near duplicate of the famous Blue Mosque in Istanbul. The Egyptian king at the time contracted to have it built, but the western builder had no experience with mosques, and found it easier to copy what was already great. In the center of the mosque's courtyard is a massive clock tower, which was given by French King Louis Philippe in exchange for the famous obelisk from Luxor Temple, which now stands in Place de la Concorde in Paris. We would see that obelisk's empty pedestal later in the week, in Luxor. The Egyptians are quick to point out that the clock in the tower has never worked, having been damaged in transit from France and never repaired.

The Citadel and Mohamad Ali Mosque
Non-Functional Clock from French King
Mohamad Ali Mosque
Anna and Charlotte outside Mosque
Properly Covered to enter the Mosque
Inside the Mohamed Ali Mosque
Inside the Mosque
As we toured the Citadel area and mosque, we kept running into the large groups of students. It was immediately apparent that they were enamored of Anna and Charlotte. Boys and girls were running up to them at times, asking to take selfies, while others were obviously positioning themselves so their friends could snap pictures of them with Anna in the background. It was not threatening, or even sexual, but seemed to out of genuine curiosity. That said, Josef, went out of his way to apologize, and started to wave off the growing numbers of kids that were trying to do it. Anna said she didn't mind, but I sense it did make her feel self-conscious.

Dusty View of Cairo from the Citadel
Leaving the Citadel
Inside Our Tour Bus
Street Scene
Back in the van, we next headed to the Coptic area of the city. Josef had proudly told us of his Christian faith the previous day, and seemed genuinely excited to show us these sites. At the entrance to the general area, there was a formal military checkpoint, and no vehicles were allowed us. Josef knew a couple of the guards, and they allowed our van to pull in and drop us off. It was nice to then navigate the streets free of traffic and all the noise. Our main destination was the famous "Hanging Church," or the Coptic Church of St. Mary, which dates back to the 3rd century. It was absolutely beautiful, with wonderful mosaics portraying the story of the Holy Family during their time in Egypt. The inside, too, had incredible original frescoes and intricate wood work. It was a highlight of the trip, to me.

Approaching Hanging Church
Mosaic at Hanging Church
The Hanging Church
Door to Hanging Church
Entering the Hanging Church
Inside the Hanging Church
Our next stop was lunch, at a cute little Egyptian restaurant, on the second floor, with nice views over the Nile River. The meal was huge and, oddly enough, the highlight was an appetizer listed only as "garlic dip" on the menu. Whatever it consisted of, all of us couldn't stop raving about it, and we never did find anything similar through the remainder of the trip. Anna was so enamored of it, that she asked we return there the following weekend, when we were to be back in Cairo. Alas, we did not make it. We also "enjoyed" the traditional Egyptian dish of roast pigeon. While it looked nice when brought out, we soon realized that it was 90 percent rice stuffing, as the amount of actual meat was minuscule.

View From Lunch
Roast Pigeon
Two Dorks at Lunch
The highlight of the day was next, with our long-awaiting visit to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which includes the King Tut treasure. I have been hearing for several years about the new Grand Egyptian Museum, which is being built to replace the extremely antiquated and inferior current Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. Everything I read was that it was to open in 2018, and even the on-board magazine for EgyptAir had an article touting its imminent opening. Well, that museum is nowhere near opening. We would catch sight of the absolutely massive building, which is on the outskirts of Giza at the far base of the pyramid plateau, the next weekend, and it looks nowhere near completion. So, any thoughts of visiting the new museum were gone. We were surprised, however, to discover that many items from the King Tut exhibit at the current museum have already been boxed up for transport to the new location, which seems very premature. Anyway, this was the first time we would encounter true crowds of tourists, and they were nearly 100 percent Chinese. Our guide said that Chinese have filled some of the void left by the severe drop in Western tourists following the revolution. That was obvious here. The line to go through security outside the gates of the museum was very long, and then once inside, the lines to enter the museum were even longer. We watched in impressed amazement as Josef huddled us up and effectively inserted us at the front of each line. He knew people at each choke point, and after some laughter, back slapping, and quick handshakes (certainly with some money in his palm), we were rushed through, ahead of everyone else waiting in line. He did the same thing when buying our tickets, and then with getting us directly into the museum, without waiting. That all highlighted the value of a good guide, as well as our small group size.

Outside the Egyptian Museum
The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities
The inside of the museum was exactly as I remembered it from both of my previous visits, and something tells me it hasn't changed much over its 150-year history. Still, seeing so many fascinating objects, so freely accessible, is something to behold. We paid for a special ticket, which allowed us to tour the mummy room, which was another highlight. That was immediately followed by the massive King Tut exhibit, which even with many objects packed up for transport, took more than an hour to even scratch the surface. In several areas, guides were not allowed to speak, but Josef would pull us aside, tell us what we would see, provide us a tip for best viewing, and then meet us again. His experience was most evident during this part of our tour.
The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

In the museum
From King Tut's Treasure
King Tut's Throne Chair
Original papyrus from Inside Tut's Tomb
We could have easily spent more time here, and he offered to do so. As it was essentially a private tour, he was ready and willing to do what we wanted. We elected to instead go to the main bazaar, the Khan el-Khalili souk, which is a huge area in Islamic Cairo. Barbara had spent time here before, and was eager for us to at least see it. Interestingly, Josef was none too eager for us to spend time here. The whole way down, he was warning us about the aggressive shopkeepers, and kept saying that there was little to buy. Barbara seemed surprised by this, and while the shopkeepers certainly did try to entice us into their shops, they were relatively civilized compared to what we'd seen in the other tourist areas, and in comparison to what we'd seen in Luxor later in the week, these guys were lambs. We wanted to shop, but Josef kept seeming to want to move us along. In the end, we did buy a couple of things, but the most interesting part was in the walk, through a myriad of tiny alleyways, each one unique in its own way. The smells and sounds, too, were fascinating. We ended up stopping at a very old cafe, set up along a very narrow alleyway, where we had tea and coffee, and we also ordered shisha pipes. Josef was correct in that sitting there and people watching, was the highlight of the bazaar experience. While we were there, a Nubian woman stopped by and offered to give the girls henna tattoos. Josef cautioned that they would find far superior "henna artists" down in Aswan, where the Nubians actually live -- which was true -- but the girls each had a hand done. It cost a dollar or two. It was a very relaxing way to wind down the day.

Entering the Souk
large_20180324_171616.jpg
The Bazaar
The Bazaar
Bread
In the Bazaar
Getting Tea in the Bazaar
Getting her hand henna tattoo'd
The sun had set by the time we left the market, but we hadn't been able to tell, as the narrow alleyways already pretty much blocked all sunlight. With the sun setting, however, locals had started to pour out into the streets, and as the traffic had been light all day, it was now a parking lot. Josef called our driver, who advised where he was and who said it would take him "forever" to get down to us. Josef, instead, led us off and we started to walk away from the souk. He deftly navigated us through throngs of people heading in the opposite direction. We ultimately had to go out into traffic -- which, luckily, wasn't moving -- and cross over a large traffic circle, before Steve came around a corner and picked us up, pretty much in the middle of traffic. While I wouldn't want to repeat it, it is certainly an interesting memory.


We were to fly to Aswan later this night, with our EgyptAir flight leaving at 10:00pm. We got to the airport around 8:00pm. Our local tour coordinator had offered to meet us, but we told him to not bother. We didn't see a need, which was correct. We said goodbye to Josef and Steve and checked in for our domestic flight. We would miss Josef. In fact, we have all since become Facebook friends with him, and he was offering us guidance -- and laughter -- during the remainder of our trip. We were able to spend our wait in the domestic EgyptAir lounge, which helped, as there were no real places to get food in this part of the terminal. The snacks held us over until the flight. We were booked in Business Class, which was nice, but the flight was just over an hour. Still, even with such a short flight, we were served a warm dinner. I wish American Airlines would go back to such service.

On the flight from Cairo to Aswan
Our Plane in Aswan
The airport in Aswan was small, and the number of flights from Cairo has dropped drastically with the downturn in tourism. We had also officially gone from Lower Egypt (Cairo) to Upper Egypt (Aswan/Cairo), which seems counterintuitive if you look at map, but which is based on the northerly flow of the Nile River. We had another local tour director from MemphisTours, who met us as we exited the bus that brought us from the plane to baggage claim. He told us about the drop in flights -- for example, there were are only three flights per day between Cairo and Aswan. He did say that there is a once-a-week nonstop charter to Aswan from Shanghai, which I found interesting.
From the minute we exited the airport, we could tell we weren't in Cairo anymore. There was no real traffic, and the drive to the hotel was nearly deserted. We crossed the original Aswan dam, which was built by the English in the 1800's. All of the traffic into and out of Aswan has to drive across the dam on a two-lane road, and the Egyptian Army controls access. It is considered a military site, as if the dam were to break (or be intentionally damaged) it could flood the entire country. The security checks on each side of the dam were legitimate and thorough.



It was after midnight when we reached downtown Aswan, which was all but deserted. Our hotel was located on Elephantine Island, in the middle of the Nile River. To reach it, we had to take a boat launch from along the "corniche" of old Aswan. Our minibus drove us down to the launch area, where we and our bags were whisked onto a boat, which immediately crossed the river. On the far side, the process was repeated, and we were loaded onto a large golf cart and driven up the hill to check-in. The hotel, a Moevenpick, was very nice, and our rooms were already waiting for us. This was good, as it was going to be a very short night, with a planned visit to Abu Simbel in the morning.

Launch To Take Us to Hotel
Arrived at Aswan Hotel, and Ready for Bed

No comments:

Post a Comment